Hope everyone had a nice Wednesday! Today I slept in, got lunch at Parliament with my boyfriend, and went to the Victoria and Albert Museum!
I had been told by many people that I would enjoy the V&A, as it is a very innovative museum that had many textile, jewellery, and fashion displays. I planned to go earlier in January, but suddenly came down with a case of minor head trauma. Anyhow, I was very excited to visit today, and was immediately impressed with the museum. Unlike other museums, the museum has a very inviting aura. The building is rectangular, with a large courtyard featuring an artificial pond in the centre, which is visible in many areas of the museum. I walked to the main entrance to drop my things in the cloak room and grab a map. In the main foyer was an amazing lighting piece by Bocci, which swayed ever so slightly with the wind. I felt that the movement in the sculpture made the museum seem more approachable and less static, which I really enjoyed.
Before beelining to the Fashion Museum, I explored the V&A, especially the rooms hosting Renaissance pieces. I loved that the exhibits were not just works of art, but rather the art of everyday, ordinary objects. I think art is often separated from utility, but in my opinion, that should not be the case. The ceramic bowls and plates were a bit crude in shape and colour application compared to modern standards, but I was amazed by their ability to create the colours and produce pottery without the paint bubbling or running. There was also a notebook belonging to Leonardo (Da Vinci) showcased, which I initially didn't appreciate for it's value. After considering why this may be featured, I thought about the fact that one of the most genius men to ever live wrote in this notebook; that he had touched the pages I saw. The museum of Renaissance art hosted a decorative salt cellar, tapestry, architect sketches, stained glass windows, and part of a dome hanging from the ceiling. These pieces would never be found at more traditional museums, but the inclusion of these assets developed a feel for life in the place and time period. I felt a stronger sense of understanding for the works of art from this period because they were contextualized by the other pieces included.
I explored a bit more of the museum, then headed outside to the courtyard to see the pond, which is currently part of an exhibit by Xu Bing. Bing has utilized the shallow body of water for his piece "Traveling to Wonderlan", in which he explores an idealistic depiction of untouched nature. His placement of rocks, peach blossoms, ceramic fish in the pond, and foliage create a scene of nature. I appreciated his decision to make a soft vibration in the water and have light wisps of mist appear from under the rocks. After enjoying the fresh air, I finally headed to my favourite part of the museum: A large roomed marked "Fashion Galleries".
At first I didn't know where to look first; I felt like a child in the candy shop (also known as my adult self at the candy display before the checkout at Sainsbury's). The exhibit was in chronological order and began with a display of clothing until the 17th century. I studied the fashion, styling, and shapes used in this era, but was most fascinated with the social and political implications of the clothes. Women were laced up into corsets made of whalebone, often damaging their internal organs, so they could be stuffed into restrictive dresses. Women were expected to be very properly dressed and groomed at all times, despite the difficulty it caused them to walk, move, and breathe. From the 17th century until about the 19th century, women's dress evolved in shape, but did not become notably less restrictive. Towards the end of the 19th century, though, fashion began to progress. One of my favourite pieces was a navy blue wool riding jacket with mohair braid. The structure of the jacket dates it, but the style has proven timeless. Military-style jackets seem to always be in style in some capacity (right now it's the earthy green quilted Barbour jacket). I found it fascinating that a piece from
over 130 years ago would not have looked a bit out of place in the Louis Vuitton SS14 collection.
Fortunately, in 1890, the idea of the Gibson girl appeared and was popularized by the turn of the 20th century. The idea that women needed to be free to wear clothes for sport and activity was revolutionary. This form of rebellion against forced structure in women's lives was freeing for them both socially, as they could now play sports, and physically; they did not have to be laced into corsets for every hour of the day. Scandalous pieces, such as woolen swimming costumes, were even displayed! Many were one piece, which were conservative and had shorts that hit the mid-thigh, but my favourite (of course) was a two-piece swimming costume. In sunflower yellow, it featured a structured, thick-strapped bikini top paired with high-waisted shorts that tied with a wool belt just under the rib cage. I believe this silhouette is very flattering, as it shows a flatter part of the abdomen and accentuates the waist.
I was most familiar with the designers and styles of the 20th and 21st century, particularly that of the last fifty years. Honestly, I struggle with forcing myself to study the work of the founders of fashion houses. It is not because I am uninterested, as I want and need to learn this facet of the fashion industry, but am already overwhelmed by the size of the industry today. The constant evolution of styles and trends is expedited by social media and the internet, so I spend a considerable amount of time watching runway shows, following social media, reading fashion magazines and memoirs as it is. It was very informative to see a large collection of fashions I was less familiar with, but was relieved to see clothing from the past century.
My favourite display was the one of evening dresses from 1947-1960. The pieces were so timeless and elegant, and had a sense of refinement that I fear the fashion industry is losing. My favourite was a Balmain dress from 1950 that was silk with ostrich feathers and rhinestones.
Another notable piece in this display was a two piece evening ensemble by Balenciaga in 1967. The Gazar silk makes it elegant, but the draping makes it couture.
In the case of 1960's fashions, I was surprised with how familiar I was with the pieces. A jersey, multicolored Emilio Pucci dress from 1968 was immediately recognizable, along with a few printed ties. Another ensemble was a Tuffin skirt suit from 1964, which was featured in Vogue. This piece reminded me of the Louis Vuitton SS 2013 show, which showcased an array of pieces in black and white checkers.
Emilio Pucci Silk Jersey Dress
The last display was Radical Fashion from 1990-2012. There were many beautiful pieces, all by designers I am very familiar with, including Helmut Lang, Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, Calvin Klein, Dior, Nicholar Kirkwood, Miuccia Prada, and Balenciaga. One piece, however, I noticed from across the room, and I avoided until looking at every other ensemble in the display. The piece was a dress from Alexander McQueen's Summer/Spring 2011 collection, which was the last collection he ever made. The evening dress is a short, silk dress, with a pattern McQueen laser printed from an ancient German piece of art. The skirt is draped over a an underskirt of feathers that were hand painted gold. The dress was featured with stiletto ankle boots and a gold knuckle duster bag, which McQueen popularized with a skull atop of the knuckle duster.
When I saw this piece, I was overwhelmed and fought back tears. I was initially confused as to why I was so emotional, but it made sense. When I was in the eighth grade, I found an Alexander McQueen Tote bag in the back corner of a thrift store on a clearance rack. I had no understanding of the treasure I had, but loved the bag. In high school I began following fashion and familiarizing myself with designers and brands, but was particularly attracted to the work of McQueen, especially with the rise in popularity of Lady Gaga. I began watching his shows and couldn't stop. They were so different from everything else in the industry- he transcended colours of the year and short-lived trends; he created pieces of art for women to wear. I fell in love with his work, but was shocked to learn in February of 2010 that he had taken his life. I had been saddened by the occasional passing thought that I will never meet my hero, but never dwelled on it. When I came to London, I was excited to see the birthplace of Alexander McQueen. Only days after being here, I dragged my boyfriend down Bond Street and into the McQueen boutique. I studied the pieces carefully and noted the craftsmanship of each piece. I think Sarah Burton has done a fantastic job as creative director, but the clothes on Bond Street didn't solicit an emotional reaction, only admiration.
Since going to the Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore! exhibit on at Somerset House, I have been troubled by the loss of McQueen. Seeing his work in person was surreal. Knowing that he touched and made the clothes I was viewing was an experience I cannot explain with words. One of the greatest designers to ever live made the rows of clothes in that exhibit, and I saw them all in person. After seeing his work, though, I understand the gravity of the loss experienced by the fashion world as a result of his death. His work is unparalleled by any living designer, and very likely will never be surpassed. Being in his hometown has made the loss of McQueen very real and very painful, as he has been the single most inspiring figure to me in my journey into the fashion industry. Had I not discovered McQueen, I would have never watched a fashion show, pursued the industry as a career, traveled to London, or be at my internship with Upper Street. This man, who I will never know, has dramatically changed my life. Seeing one of the last dresses he ever made was heartbreaking, and made the loss feel very new. McQueen inspired me to come to London and break into the fashion industry, and everyday that I feel unsure or fear failure, I remember his life and legacy.
xo
BJordan
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